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Getting a new pistol
nsezell
Posts: 294
I recently completed my concealed carry permit stuff and am now looking for my first semi auto pistol. I've been shooting since I was a kid but I just now have the money to get a handgun of my own. I've decided on a .40 and am trying to pick a gun now. If I had to decide today I'd get the sig p229. I like the safety and the feel, and have read about their reliability and accuracy. I first considered the glock 22, but I don't think I can overlook the lack of a full safety. Anyone here shoot a .40 and can give me their input I'd appreciate it. I haven't fully eliminated anything yet, so all comments are welcome. Thanks guys.
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I let my permit expire as I only used it when I traveled. I dont know, a person has to think about the liability in carrying around a loaded gun.
Another that's been getting some good reviews (but that I haven't added to the collection yet) is the Sig 250. It's an interchangeable system, you can swap frame and grip sizes, calibers, making it very flexible.
I would also, personally, go with 9mm or .45 before I would look at .40 or .357 Sig. I have witnessed any number of people who claim they can accurately shoot .40 as well as a 9mm or .45 in the same sized package. It has never been demonstrated with a shot time, IME. All service callibers perform very similarly on humans with modern JHP ammo. None of them are death rays and all of them benefit greatly from nearly simultaneous multiple hits. 9mm gives you the ability to have rapid, accurate shots and provides the largest payload in a given envelope. it is also the least expensive to shoot.
If your mind is made up, I know I won't sway you but at least gave you information so you can make an educated decision. Even if you go with .40 I'd suggest you look at the polymer framed pistols. The polymer frame helps with recoil a small bit and they are lighter than steel or even allow framed guns, which is a plus in a carry gun.
One last thing totally beyond what you were asking about, but have you thought about a revolver at all. I can carry almost everywhere I go on a daily basis. However some are NPEs where I really cannot afford to be made. A j-frame is easy to conceal and still provides an adequate round. It wouldn't be my first choice, but a gun on your person is better than a bigger gun home in the safe. I also prefer a revolver in a grappling scenario. It is harder to disarm, cannot be knocked out of battery and can be run even with someone grabbing the cylinder if the proper technique is used.
Best of luck with whatever you go with.
Well I went to the gun show today and had a sweet new Glock G22 RTF2 .40 Cal. all picked out and was ready to buy it, when I decided since I already have a .40 cal. and a 9mm, and a .380, I would pick me up a good home defense shotgun. I have a Browning Citori over and under, but it's a hunting gun. I wanted something more compact and intimidating... soooooo I went with the Remington model 870 with the 2 round extension. 6 in the tube and 1 in the hole in all black with the composite stock. I'm pretty happy with my purchase!
Most people who talk about something getting caught in there while holstering and the gun "going off", if persued to the truth, usually turns out to be their finger was in the trigger guard when they went to reholster.
That said, an IWB holster does not need nor do most have any retention straps. IMO, for citizens, retention mechanisms are just not necessary and do more harm than good.
Plug for 1911 - 1911 has two safeties, one on the slide, and a grip safety, and was designed to be carried condition 1/cocked and locked. /end plug
If you're looking for a good IWB holster, I'd recommend Crossbreed Supertuck, Compt-Tac MTAC, or the Tucker "The Answer" - all very good holsters. Be sure to buy a good gun belt too; the entire rig is a system, and without a good stiff gun belt, the gun will sag and will be miserable to wear; a good belt makes all-day wear very easy
One thing to consider with carry is weight, not simply size. I own a SIG 228 and LOVE shooting it, but I can't stand carrying it. It's much heavier than my Walther P99 or my Glock, and this is why I go to the Walther every day. Not to mention the ergonomics on the Walther are in my humble opinion the best of any handgun, period. Mag release, slide release, and grip are my favorite of any gun I've owned or shot.
A couple other things to consider: whatever pistol you decide to get, you'll train with it and will get much better with it. The arguments surrounding "this gun is more accurate than this one, blah blah blah" are crap - you'll get faster and more accurate the more you train with your pistol and that's what is important. Assuming the gun is a high-quality one.
Which brings me to my next point: Taurus. For those that posted saying they have one and love it - good for you. I really hope your pistol works well and you love it for the rest of your life. The bottom line is these pistols are cheap and are simply not made to the quality that you can buy for $100 more. Your life is worth paying a bit more for Glock, SIG, H&K, Walther, Smith&Wesson, Springfield, etc. In addition to the quality, the trigger on the 24/7 is down-right awful. Double taps with a mile-long trigger reset is incredibly difficult. I taught a private class with a student in January with a Taurus and gently explained to him what I meant, and then showed him the reset on my P99. Night and day difference and he understood immediately.
Find a pistol you love and shoot well, that is well made, and shoot the ever-living hell out of it. Train with a purpose - don't just fire off rounds for fun. Training IS fun and you'll improve with proper training.
Oh, and I don't remember who mentioned 9mm earlier - but yeah, I agree completely. Faster follow-up shots, greater accuracy. Use some Winchester Rangers and you'll be just as effective as a .40 cal. Do you own research on ammunition and you'll realize that the sad fact about hand gun calibers is they all suck at killing people.
Fact of the matter is, for a citizen utilizing a handgun. barrier penetration is far distant, in importance, to being able to put rapid shots on target.
If the line below is the amount of power required to kill in a single shot:
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
This is the amount of power you can expect from a .45:
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This is the amount you can expect from a 9mm:
|-------|
The simple fact is, a hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .45. That said, I never heard of anyone who wanted less firepower. The standard advice is to go with as much firepower as you can control; if 9mm is the most power you can accurately shoot, then use 9mm and don't listen to anyone who tells you to go higher. If you can handle a .45, then go with a .45.
Another factor often overlooked is weight and profile; glocks are lighter than an all-steel frame, but they're thicker due to being staggered rounds; steel guns are better at controlling recoil due to their weight, but they're also heavier (a good holster and belt, which'll cost you about $80 each, will erase this problem for carrying). Just read as much as you can, go to a bunch of gun forums and read and ask questions - most people on gun forums, much like Ccom, love to answer questions by newbies.