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silvermouse
Posts: 19,278 ✭✭✭✭✭
Looking for an electrolytic capacitor, screw terminal, 50v, 82,000uF. I can get one from mouser.com for $115.43 but would prefer less expensive.
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silvermouse
Posts: 19,278 ✭✭✭✭✭
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Digikey was the first site I thought of, seems to have much better pricing.
I think this link should help you narrow it down. Also, try a Google search of "CAP ALUM 82000UF 50V SCREW" for more options.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv2079=u50V&sf=0&FV=-8|58,mu82000µF|2049&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
Dang, those are all out of stock. I thought I'd filtered for in-stock only.
What's the application, Edward @silvermouse? I've asked a coffee friend to see if he has some good sources. Is this a starter cap for a motor or?
repairing a very light duty capacitive discharge tack welder (it is no longer made and the capacitor will fire once then get weaker and weaker with subsequent discharges until it is allowed to recycle for a few minutes (it shouldn't do that so I am assuming the capacitor is at fault)). It is used for tacking bails on the back of sterling pendants prior to silver brazing them. I don't have the knowledge nor the test equipment to check out the rest of the circuit so I am using the replace-parts-until-it-works-again-system, lol.
Problem solved. I found these listed for only $83.11 each.
(If you buy 100 of them, that's the price per unit anyway)
Seriously, though -you can go here and check out the great deal on this capacitor: http://product.dzsc.com/product/1062044-201982214273274.html
You will have to have it shipped from China, Wushan district apparently. Low, low price for some strange reason.
@silvermouse can you get a picture of the machine and both sides of the circuit board? My friend thinks it's more likely the power supply or charging circuit.
Do you have a voltmeter you can use to monitor the voltage across the capacitor?
Also, try a Google search of "CAP ALUM 82000UF 50V SCREW" for more options.
Thanks Chris. After some digging around with that search term I found a u.s. distributor (onlinecomponents.com) that will sell single units rather than in quantity for about $90 less, I think, haven't placed the order yet, have to take the welder apart again and double check the size and specs. I knew that mouser.com was an expensive last resort, just didn't realize how substantial their markup was.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow. I do have a $10 voltmeter which might serve and I'm not afraid to use it if I know what I am doing. Am I looking at setting it to DC in the 50v range? Do I remove the leads from the capacitor or not? Can you tell that thing scares me a little, makes quite a spark, lol.
Thanks Chris!
Thanks Chris!
and I still can't figure out why my photos are doubled up when I post them from the phone, I didn't preview them before posting this time....
Because we've lost that privilege, it seems.
Here's the feedback I got
I'd certainly clean up the connection in this picture: pkpdeszxsbxg.webp Take it apart carefully because it looks like the tab is insulated from the chassis. Then clean all the surfaces and put it back together with fresh heat sink goo. Not that that is the problem, but it just looks dirty. You could also clean the PCB with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of all the flux residue, not that it should make a difference, but it shouldn't hurt and it might help. Did you do the voltage check to see if the voltage is dropping?
Also make sure the LM338 is still tightly attached. It's the only part in picture oieu4lpj89q4.heic
OK, thanks, I'll do that. Still not sure how to check for voltage drop, do I put the probes on both sides of the capacitor or do I disconnect one lead and put one probe on it and the other on the cap?Or do I take the measurement at the circuit board?
You would place the leads on both sides of the capacitor, range set for DV and at least 50 v
OK, thanks.