Never a once have I had issues when using Boveda. The Excel has an internal RH meter.... that could be off a bit +/- 2 is common Just could be a little more.
Remember why it's called RELATIVE humidity; it's a relationship between the dew point and temperature. If you change the temp w/o changing the actual amount of moisture in the air (dew point) it will change the percentage of RELATIVE humidity. Lower the temp / keep the moisture the same = higher RELATIVE humidity.
@VegasFrank said:
You guys are soooo funny. I'm not going to have those gurkhas and Victor Sinclair's for long because I have both of your addresses...and I'm a Big Dog
So are those good prices?
fify
I know, You're a big dog and I'm on the list. Let's eat, GrandMa. / Let's eat GrandMa. -- Punctuation saves lives
@VegasFrank said:
You guys are soooo funny. I'm not going to have those gurkhas and Victor Sinclair's for long because I have both of your addresses...
So are those good prices?
I paid 279.99 for mine and I would say that is on par if not better
Ever notice that every time you see "Whynter humidor" on the forum, it's always accompanied by the words "Having trouble with"?
WARNING: The above post may contain thoughts or ideas known to the State of Caliphornia to cause seething rage, confusion, distemper, nausea, perspiration, sphincter release, or cranial implosion to persons who implicitly trust only one news source, or find themselves at either the left or right political extreme. Proceed at your own risk.
"If you do not read the newspapers you're uninformed. If you do read the newspapers, you're misinformed." -- Mark Twain
But make sure to don’t get any condensation. Some people have better luck with it unplugged with beads or Boveda right over the drain
Thats the exact problem with plugging the drain hole for the condensation to go out. If its plugged it WILL pool up with a water/ammonia solution in that whole reservoir and will fool the hygrometer's, especially if their mounted in the front of the wineador they will read 65/65. Stick a hygrometer in the back with that condensation even if it's not pooled up and it will be 80%+RH, pooled up and it's just as bad if not worse from what I remember from my NewAir 321ed.
The drain's exit barely needs to be opened in the very back of the unit, just enough to let it out drain out. Condensation or standing water by cigars doesn't end well...MOLD CITY! Happened to me with the New Air 321ed, I plugged the drains and it was an ammonia swamp. I did it to... tasted the water and it burned my lips and fingers, all that ammonia outgassing from the cigars aging has to go somewhere.
If you quote me do the @TX98Z28 in your text or I won't be notified of your quote, Thanks.
But make sure to don’t get any condensation. Some people have better luck with it unplugged with beads or Boveda right over the drain
Thats the exact problem with plugging the drain hole for the condensation to go out. If its plugged it WILL pool up with a water/ammonia solution in that whole reservoir and will fool the hygrometer's, especially if their mounted in the front of the wineador they will read 65/65. Stick a hygrometer in the back with that condensation even if it's not pooled up and it will be 80%+RH, pooled up and it's just as bad if not worse from what I remember from my NewAir 321ed.
The drain's exit barely needs to be opened in the very back of the unit, just enough to let it out drain out. Condensation or standing water by cigars doesn't end well...MOLD CITY! Happened to me with the New Air 321ed, I plugged the drains and it was an ammonia swamp. I did it to... tasted the water and it burned my lips and fingers, all that ammonia outgassing from the cigars aging has to go somewhere.
I’ve tried both but you really do have to check often if you plug it. I’ve seen photos of little crystal orbs that will build up if you’re getting moisture but maybe not enough to puddle. I guess they form if the moisture evaporates or is absorbed by beads or Boveda...idk. Just for fun I’m going to try without the tape for a week and see if there is any change now that I’ve been running it for so long. I also run a Hygrometer top and bottom to check fluctuation. I also pull my drawers out and check regularly.
Also.... air circulation is key. I open the door almost daily to get a stick. I don’t know how I feel about long term aging where the door is closed for a prolonged period of time.
But make sure to don’t get any condensation. Some people have better luck with it unplugged with beads or Boveda right over the drain
That's what I did. I originally plugged the drain but had condensation problems so I put a tube of beads right over the drain and bovedas on all the shelves and no worries now.
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But make sure to don’t get any condensation. Some people have better luck with it unplugged with beads or Boveda right over the drain
Thats the exact problem with plugging the drain hole for the condensation to go out. If its plugged it WILL pool up with a water/ammonia solution in that whole reservoir and will fool the hygrometer's, especially if their mounted in the front of the wineador they will read 65/65. Stick a hygrometer in the back with that condensation even if it's not pooled up and it will be 80%+RH, pooled up and it's just as bad if not worse from what I remember from my NewAir 321ed.
The drain's exit barely needs to be opened in the very back of the unit, just enough to let it out drain out. Condensation or standing water by cigars doesn't end well...MOLD CITY! Happened to me with the New Air 321ed, I plugged the drains and it was an ammonia swamp. I did it to... tasted the water and it burned my lips and fingers, all that ammonia outgassing from the cigars aging has to go somewhere.
I’ve tried both but you really do have to check often if you plug it. I’ve seen photos of little crystal orbs that will build up if you’re getting moisture but maybe not enough to puddle. I guess they form if the moisture evaporates or is absorbed by beads or Boveda...idk. Just for fun I’m going to try without the tape for a week and see if there is any change now that I’ve been running it for so long. I also run a Hygrometer top and bottom to check fluctuation. I also pull my drawers out and check regularly.
** Also.... air circulation is key. I open the door almost daily to get a stick. I don’t know how I feel about long term aging where the door is closed for a prolonged period of time.**
That is one of the most important things a lot of us on here or other aficionados forget to do is let the humidor, coolidor, wineador, etc. air out for 10 minutes or so every week to insure fresh air is being constantly let in. If you smoke 1 or 2 a day and it's constantly being opened it's probably not much of a problem but if anyone is like me and smokes 1-2 a week or less or forgets to let it air out it's not good. Stagnant air is a huge problem and not a lot of people even realize it happens, ruins cigars and can cause mold issues even with perfect 65/65 environmental conditions.
If you quote me do the @TX98Z28 in your text or I won't be notified of your quote, Thanks.
I'm sitting here wondering why fresh air is important. Air circulation to keep humidity more or less even, I'd agree with. But letting in the fresh air in... why? When I open my storage box and get that wonderful whiff of tobacco, that essence of the leaf, wouldn't it be better if it didn't escape?
Good question. Pipe tobacco is aged by excluding oxygen, the oxygen in a sealed tin is quickly used up and an anaerobic fermentation takes place. Maybe since cigar tobaccos are already fermented further anaerobic fermentation is not desired.
Raises another good question; does cigar fermentation stop after it's removed from the pilon? IOW, is the heat of the pilon necessary to cause fermentation?
@peter4jc said:
I'm sitting here wondering why fresh air is important. Air circulation to keep humidity more or less even, I'd agree with. But letting in the fresh air in... why? When I open my storage box and get that wonderful whiff of tobacco, that essence of the leaf, wouldn't it be better if it didn't escape?
From what I understand to air out any chemicals created, tho potentially little by the tobacco “breaking down”.(Davidoff’s term during fermentation).
From what I believe this is also why boxes are aged as well.
I've posted this article before but some didn't agree with it and thats okay. First off just forget this is titled the way it is, just see it as information about tobacco/cigars in general. We all know you can age cigars in cellophane, there is nothing wrong with cellophane.
I don't agree with everything in the article either but understand where he's coming from. Hell he knows way more than me, he only blends cigars for a living. @Vision Correct, ammonia is a by product/chemical released during fermentation or aging, you don't want that building up in the humidor, cooler, wineador, etc. reason to let it air out some. Opening for an hour every 3 weeks is way to excessive though to me (maybe for an actual aging vault or huge walk in humidor). I don't agree with the cellophane off fully but understand it would technically allow the cigar to breath more. I actually put ALL my cigars in cellophane to protect against mold, I hate mold.
If you quote me do the @TX98Z28 in your text or I won't be notified of your quote, Thanks.
Comments
Never a once have I had issues when using Boveda. The Excel has an internal RH meter.... that could be off a bit +/- 2 is common Just could be a little more.
Remember why it's called RELATIVE humidity; it's a relationship between the dew point and temperature. If you change the temp w/o changing the actual amount of moisture in the air (dew point) it will change the percentage of RELATIVE humidity. Lower the temp / keep the moisture the same = higher RELATIVE humidity.
So, raise the temp?
Trapped in the People's Communits Republic of Massachusetts.
Speaking of these contraptions, is this a good price?
https://smart-buy-appliance-outlet.shoplightspeed.com/whynter-whynter-32-bottle-dual-zone-wine-cooler-st.html
They also have a 20 bottle unit for $200 and a 16 for $100
Max temp is 66... I like!
I also like that all your Gurkha and Sinclair’s get their own compartment!
20 bottle for his Ghurkas and a 16 bottle for his VS.
You guys are soooo funny. I'm not going to have those gurkhas and Victor Sinclair's for long because I have both of your addresses...
So are those good prices?
fify
I know, You're a big dog and I'm on the list.
Let's eat, GrandMa. / Let's eat GrandMa. -- Punctuation saves lives
It'll be fine once the swelling goes down.
You just made my list.
Your words...
I know, You're a big dog and I'm on the list.
Let's eat, GrandMa. / Let's eat GrandMa. -- Punctuation saves lives
It'll be fine once the swelling goes down.
And my list
I paid 279.99 for mine and I would say that is on par if not better
Thanks brother
Ever notice that every time you see "Whynter humidor" on the forum, it's always accompanied by the words "Having trouble with"?
"If you do not read the newspapers you're uninformed. If you do read the newspapers, you're misinformed." -- Mark Twain
Bought it anyways. Worst case scenario is I have a sealed box...a humidor annex if you will.
There's a drain?
Some
Hmmm. Well, okay. I saw a small hole under a fan. I put tape over it. If that's a drain hole, it's holding humidity one way or another....
Like this?
But make sure to don’t get any condensation. Some people have better luck with it unplugged with beads or Boveda right over the drain
Thats the exact problem with plugging the drain hole for the condensation to go out. If its plugged it WILL pool up with a water/ammonia solution in that whole reservoir and will fool the hygrometer's, especially if their mounted in the front of the wineador they will read 65/65. Stick a hygrometer in the back with that condensation even if it's not pooled up and it will be 80%+RH, pooled up and it's just as bad if not worse from what I remember from my NewAir 321ed.
The drain's exit barely needs to be opened in the very back of the unit, just enough to let it out drain out. Condensation or standing water by cigars doesn't end well...MOLD CITY! Happened to me with the New Air 321ed, I plugged the drains and it was an ammonia swamp. I did it to... tasted the water and it burned my lips and fingers, all that ammonia outgassing from the cigars aging has to go somewhere.
I’ve tried both but you really do have to check often if you plug it. I’ve seen photos of little crystal orbs that will build up if you’re getting moisture but maybe not enough to puddle. I guess they form if the moisture evaporates or is absorbed by beads or Boveda...idk. Just for fun I’m going to try without the tape for a week and see if there is any change now that I’ve been running it for so long. I also run a Hygrometer top and bottom to check fluctuation. I also pull my drawers out and check regularly.
Also.... air circulation is key. I open the door almost daily to get a stick. I don’t know how I feel about long term aging where the door is closed for a prolonged period of time.
That's what I did. I originally plugged the drain but had condensation problems so I put a tube of beads right over the drain and bovedas on all the shelves and no worries now.
That is one of the most important things a lot of us on here or other aficionados forget to do is let the humidor, coolidor, wineador, etc. air out for 10 minutes or so every week to insure fresh air is being constantly let in. If you smoke 1 or 2 a day and it's constantly being opened it's probably not much of a problem but if anyone is like me and smokes 1-2 a week or less or forgets to let it air out it's not good. Stagnant air is a huge problem and not a lot of people even realize it happens, ruins cigars and can cause mold issues even with perfect 65/65 environmental conditions.
I'm sitting here wondering why fresh air is important. Air circulation to keep humidity more or less even, I'd agree with. But letting in the fresh air in... why? When I open my storage box and get that wonderful whiff of tobacco, that essence of the leaf, wouldn't it be better if it didn't escape?
Good question. Pipe tobacco is aged by excluding oxygen, the oxygen in a sealed tin is quickly used up and an anaerobic fermentation takes place. Maybe since cigar tobaccos are already fermented further anaerobic fermentation is not desired.
Raises another good question; does cigar fermentation stop after it's removed from the pilon? IOW, is the heat of the pilon necessary to cause fermentation?
From what I understand to air out any chemicals created, tho potentially little by the tobacco “breaking down”.(Davidoff’s term during fermentation).
From what I believe this is also why boxes are aged as well.
Great article with a lot of good information collected from Isaias Santana Diaz.
https://cigardojo.com/2015/05/aging-cigars-to-perfection/
I've posted this article before but some didn't agree with it and thats okay. First off just forget this is titled the way it is, just see it as information about tobacco/cigars in general. We all know you can age cigars in cellophane, there is nothing wrong with cellophane.
I don't agree with everything in the article either but understand where he's coming from. Hell he knows way more than me, he only blends cigars for a living. @Vision Correct, ammonia is a by product/chemical released during fermentation or aging, you don't want that building up in the humidor, cooler, wineador, etc. reason to let it air out some. Opening for an hour every 3 weeks is way to excessive though to me (maybe for an actual aging vault or huge walk in humidor). I don't agree with the cellophane off fully but understand it would technically allow the cigar to breath more. I actually put ALL my cigars in cellophane to protect against mold, I hate mold.